Sunday, 4 July 2010

Day 15 - Glaisdale to Hawsker

There was definitely an air of elation and light-heartedness amongst us over breakfast this morning.  This penultimate section of the walk would take the Trio, by late afternoon, to Hawsker which is within 5 miles walking of their objective.

At 15 miles it is one of the longest, but you can bet your (walking) boots, every step will be trodden willingly and even joyfully.  Not only will we be within easy walking distance of Robin Hood's Bay at Hawsker, but our wives will be waiting there for us.  Unfortunately Chris's girl friend Karen was unable to be there, but she managed to spend some time with him in Richmond where we were all pleased to see her.  Especially Chris!


This should be an interesting walk for the Trio.  In Wainwright's words it "has a wide variety of scene: a lovely river and woodland, heather moors, charming villages, prehistoric relics, a stately waterfall, a forest trail, (and) steam locomotives."

Here's our three walkers leaving The Arncliffe Arms.  Pub doors are normally open.  Has the landlord slammed the door on them?  No wonder!  Have you ever seen three scruffier looking individuals?  Probably not, but their smiles show they're happy and raring to go! :- 


Just down the road from here is Beggar's Bridge which spans the River Esk. :-


It was built by Thomas Ferris in 1619.  Ferris was a poor man who had aspirations to marry the daughter of a wealthy local squire.  In order to win her hand he set sail from Whitby to make his fortune.  On the night that he left he went to say goodbye to his beloved but the river was swollen after heavy rain.  He was unable to make a last visit to her and with a heavy heart he went his way.

Eventually he returned from his travels a wealthy man, and after marrying the squire's daughter, he built Beggar's Bridge so that no other lovers would suffer as he had in being separated by the flooding Esk.

The bridge is the first point of interest they came to. (Actually it was less than 5 minutes walk from The Arncliffe Arms!). :-

 

For the first part of this section of their walk the path follows the River Esk, which for the most part flows gently through wooded valleys. :-



Their pleasant stroll eventually brought them to Egton Bridge.  Egton village itself stands a mile north of the Esk so they didn't have time to visit it.

Egton Bridge, out of character for the whole walk, is made out of iron.  Disappointing for Joe, but he took a photo of it all the same. :-


Strangely, there is an additional means of crossing the river at this point, stepping stones!  Well used too, judging by how much they're worn in the centre of each one.  I suppose someone got fed up of not being able to cross when the river was in flood and like Thomas Ferris, built a bridge. :-




Still following the Esk Valley the Trio headed for Grosmont.  I have insisted on calling this Gross-mont, but locally, possibly under some French influence, it is pronounced Grow-mont.  Here's the bridge just before entering the village.  Is this the last stone bridge? :-


The majority of tourists who visit Grosmont do so because of its connection with the North York Moors Railway Society.  This organisation has kept open the Eskdale rail line between Pickering and Whitby.  This, by popular opinion, is scenically one of the finest rail journeys in the country.  They operate both vintage diesel and steam locomotives, pulling vintage rolling stock on regular journeys between the two towns.  Here's two of the locos. :-


and some more. :-




I would hazard a guess that these three thoroughly enjoyed the hour or so they spent in Grosmont, watching the engines chuff chuff up and down, and visiting the engine sheds and workshops.  All grown men are little boys at heart!

Incidentally, this plate is on the side of REPTON the big green steam locomotive immediately above. :-


It relates the history of the engine and that it is owned by Clifford H Brown of Alexandria, Virginia, USA.  What was it that Liberace once said, "The only difference between men and boys is the price they pay for their toys!".  Some toy!

Reluctantly leaving the Eskdale Valley and Grosmont the Intrepid Trio had a muscle wearying trek up the steep road out of the village which had a 1 in 3 gradient for a good part of it.  I had driven up it earlier in the day and the bodies of many previous Coast To Coast walkers lay prostrate at the side of the road.  Alive or dead, or defeated with a few miles to go, I don't know.  I stopped and offered a couple of struggling walkers a lift to the top but was flatly refused.  "Do or Die" was their motto!  What indomitable spirit!  I hoped my three companions would have the same grit and determination as these two had.

They certainly had because after this debilitating few miles we see them striding down the A169 for a short way before turning off towards Little Beck. :-


It is here that they had their first clear sighting of the North Sea and Whitby with its abbey on the headland. :-



The last two places of interest await them on this part of the walk following Little Beck. The first is The Hermitage. :-


This is a shelter hewn out of a massive boulder by George Chubb around 1790.  Why?  That's another internet search for you!

Is that a hermit I see inside? :-


Further down the beck is the waterfall Falling Foss. :-


This is in a Forest Trail of the same name established by the Forestry Commission.  Approach roads and car parks are provided, such is the popularity of this area.

They hadn't much further to go and knowing what was imminent they packed away their cameras and hurried on to Hawsker where wives and welcome pints of thirst quenching cold beer were waiting. :-



OK LADS......ONLY FIVE MILES TO GO!



TOMORROW, THE FINALE!

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